When referring to Zenith, I have to mention Mr. Beaver of LVMH Group. He is a very controversial person. Some people call him a marketing wizard, and some people think that he is too innovative, leading to The brand he handled has become disconnected from the past. Mr. Beaver has operated many watch brands, the most representative of which is the success of Hublot. Later, he renovated the Tag Heuer. I remember that it was the end of 2016 (and possibly the beginning of 2017). Mr. Beaver When it comes to managing Zenith in person, Zenith was the weaker of several LVMH watch brands. Immediately after, Zenith launched the Defy series in 2017. With a Defy Laby watch, Zenith was quickly brought to the focus of watch opinion.
So far, Zenith’s Defy series has many members, and the brand has clearly stated that ‘Defy represents the future of Swiss watchmaking’, so whether in design, technology or craftsmanship, the Defy series is very clear from previous Zenith watches The difference. The former Zenith was traditional and focused on traditional complex mechanisms, but Defy is future-oriented. We see that the new Defy series watches are mostly hollowed out dials, coupled with many new materials and new movements, thus changing the situation where Zenith is stagnant. In fact, Hublot, Tag Heuer and Zenith as the three swordsmen of LVMH’s watchmaking, under the leadership of Mr. Beaver, have obvious commonalities, the avant-garde sense of new materials and the technological revolution brought by innovative technology are exactly the same.
This year’s new Defy series is a very special watch. Although it does not have any particularly complicated functions, it is not set with diamonds, and it does not use precious metals. However, its price is as high as 137,000 yuan, which is normal. 4-5 times the force of the watch. The reason is that for the first time, it uses the new Zenith vibration plate developed by Zenith. It does not have a traditional balance wheel, balance spring, pallet and escapement wheel, but it can change the travel time accuracy. Raised to 0.3 seconds per day error, it should be the most accurate watch in the current production of mechanical watches.
We see that the dial of the watch uses a blue cutout design, which is obviously different from the previous Defy watch, which is obviously more avant-garde. The bezel also uses a new type of aluminum-based composite material, which is an ultra-light material, but has high hardness and is not easy to scratch.
The brand logo is cleverly designed on the hollow dial. The hollow design will largely disturb the visual effect of the dial. Therefore, the scales and hands of the watch are made of white luminous coating, and the time can be clearly seen during the day and at night.
Everyone may be curious about how the movement works without a balance wheel and a hairspring. We look at the 6 o’clock position, there is a very clear escape wheel blade, which is connected to the ‘zhenglishi vibrating disc’. ‘Zhenli Shizhen’ is a single-crystal silicon sheet with a thickness of only 0.5 mm. The structure is similar to a detent and a bar spring. This sheet device is actually a very large sheet under the entire dial. Through the escapement gear at 6 o’clock, we can feel the state of rapid movement of this sheet. Due to this special structure, the entire oscillation system does not require lubrication.
Since it represents the future of Swiss watchmaking, its design and materials are certainly very futuristic. The case is made of titanium, which is very light and strong and scratch-resistant. The metal color is relatively dark and not as bright as stainless steel. The geometrically cut case is indeed more futuristic than traditional round or square shapes.
The geometrical scale, surface finish, beautiful color, and hands indicate that it has also been polished, so although the dial is more ‘complex’, the time is still very clear.
You may also be curious how this bezel looks like this? This is Aeronith, an innovative aluminum-based composite material from Zenith. It is lighter than titanium, but very strong. We look at it rough and dense, but in fact it has a flat surface and a good texture, but it is a bit too complicated. Friends with obsessive-compulsive disorder and dense phobia should give up decisively.
The crown is also very avant-garde. The shape of this gear-type crown is completely different from the previous Zenith. The crown surface is embossed with a star. The blue around the crown should be a rubber layer to enhance the feel. of.
The case is brushed and the edges and corners protrude, making it very tough.
The transparent bottom cover is equipped with a Zenith 9100 self-winding movement, which provides 50 hours of power and a frequency of 18 Hz, which is 4,5 times that of a conventional movement. We know that the higher the vibration frequency, the easier it is for the watch to achieve a high accuracy, but high vibration frequency means higher energy consumption and faster oil consumption. Therefore, it is difficult to make a movement with a balance spring. The ultra-high vibration frequency, but the ‘real force vibration plate’ does not need to be lubricated, and because the vibration amplitude is small, the structure is clever, and does not need to consume a lot of energy, so the watch can still maintain 50 hours at such a high vibration frequency Kinetic energy. This innovative structure has completely overturned the structure of mechanical clock oscillators that have been used for centuries, and has a landmark significance.
The watch is equipped with a blue strap with a blue crocodile leather coating and black rubber inside. It is comfortable, soft and not afraid of sweat.
In general, this watch is a great attempt to innovate watchmaking, completely changing the traditional core mechanism, and the technology has matured, but the structure is still relatively large at present, and perhaps the technology will be more mature in the future, miniaturizing it. More interesting watches will be born. At present, this watch should be the only mechanical watch that can be bought without a balance spring. Although other brands have also tried it, they are basically still in the experimental stage, so it is reasonable to see its price.